Driving in Sardinia: Roads, ZTL and Rental Car Tips

Sardinia is made for a rental car. There’s no train network worth relying on, the best beaches sit at the end of unmarked lanes, and the coastal roads are a joy. Driving here is straightforward — no tolls, good surfaces — but a few local quirks are worth knowing before you set off, starting with the ZTL zones that quietly fine tourists in the old towns. Here’s what to know.

Good news: no highways, no tolls

Unlike mainland Italy, Sardinia has no motorways and no toll roads. You won’t deal with autostrada booths or Telepass here. The main routes (like the SS131 spine of the island) are fast dual carriageways, free to use.

The flip side: because there are no motorways, distances take longer than the map suggests. Inland and coastal roads wind, and the interior is sparsely populated, so plan generous drive times between stops.

The roads themselves

• Surfaces are good, but many roads are narrow and twisty, especially along the coast and in the mountains.
• Rural lanes can look one-way but are actually two-way — take blind bends slowly.
• Some roads to beaches are unsurfaced for the final stretch; a normal car usually copes, but check before committing.
• Tuck your wing mirrors in when parking in villages — the streets are tight.

The ZTL zones

This is the one that catches people out. Several towns — Alghero, Cagliari, Nuoro, Pula, Sassari and others — have ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) zones in their historic centres, enforced by cameras that read your plate. Enter without permission and you’ll get an automatic fine, usually forwarded by your rental company.

Watch for electronic signs: ATTIVA means the ZTL is active (don’t enter); NON ATTIVA means it’s open. The safe habit is to park just outside the old town and walk in.

Speed limits and rules

• 110 km/h on the main dual carriageways, 90 km/h on provincial roads, 50 km/h in towns (sometimes 30 in residential areas).
• Drive on the right.
• Seatbelts mandatory for everyone; phones hands-free only.
• Headlights on outside built-up areas is good practice and required in tunnels.

Renting and fuel

• Pick-up points: the airports at Cagliari, Olbia and Alghero have the most choice. Book early in summer — the island is hugely popular in July and August and cars sell out.
• Fuel: stations are common near towns but sparser in the interior; fill up before long inland stretches.
• A small car is ideal for the narrow lanes and tight village parking, unless you need the boot space.

When you’ve set your dates, you can compare car rental prices in Sardinia and grab one of the cheaper categories before they go.

The bottom line

Driving in Sardinia is relaxed and toll-free, but respect three things: allow more time than the distances suggest, keep out of the town ZTL zones, and take a small car for the narrow roads. Do that and you’ve got an island where the drive between beaches is half the holiday.